Master Blaster - EQ + EP Boost + Clean Boost

 

Loving the look of the Delay I just made, Using the same slider knobs I removed from an old Technics unit, it was natural to design this one in a similar fashion. If you want to make something that looks like this by hand, it takes a fair bit of time. Drawing/ designing, cutting, filing, polishing metal, the whole etching process, epoxy resin coloring , top-coating, putting it all together, circuit and off board wiring. It all adds up. But hell it's worth it.

This pedal will replace the MXR 109 6band Eq      ( which I always had to leave on, because it had a tone-sucking buffer system when it was switched off, but did work well on) and the BOO instruments boost which is also a great clean boost pedal. This is a double pedal ➕ solution for a bit more space on the board

The box is a 1590BB2 and contains 4 seperate circuit boards all up.

1  The EQ circuit is haha a straight replacement for my old one, the MXR 109 6 band - NOW with true bypass. Thanks to Dirtbox layouts again - link here     dirtbox MXR . I was quite happy with the old one when it was on and this circuit works exactly as well.

2 The Clean Boost, controlled by the 2nd footswitch is again from Dirtbox - Creation Audio Labs 4.23 Clean Boost dirtboxlayouts search CREATION.

It is a crystal clean boost and matches my Boo Instruments very well. You'll need an opa2134 IC and I used a MAX1044 for the built in charge pump .

3 A 2nd boost The Xotic EP Booster Dirtbox has a layout for this easily found. I used the one from Mark @ tagboard layouts as the vero size suited me better to fit it in. It is switchable with a 3pdt toggle switch, led indicator on bottom plate. I didn't want a 3rd footswitch and I am now using the EP as an almost always on end of chain volume control with a little bit of magic to it. Whereas the clean boost is for upping the game a bit for solos etc so it gets the footswitch. On the back of the pedal I have externally placed a dipswitch. This is for the fat and bright switches you will see on the circuit, which set different ways can give you a 3 mode selection of Std -unity- vintage. The original pedal has this inside the pedal I believe. You could also set these up as 2 separate on-off toggle switches if you want.

Circuit No 4 is actually a separate, toggle switchable 18v charge pump for the EP booster. More headroom at the end of my chain. You bet.

There's even another strip of vero in here for the row of LED's. I'm often using more than 1 in my designs and have started fitting multiple LED setups to vero with resistors on board.

All of this required tidy wiring, careful placement extra insulation between circuit boards, but I've managed to fit it all comfortably with no issues. one circuit is placed components down.

The pedal itself is fantastic sounding 1, 2 and 3 on seperate, together, whatever. It really is a     MASTER BLASTER

Memory Man with a PT2399

 

I've finally found a circuit worthy of replacing my  Memory Boy -for me. I use delay subtly and especially just like the tone my EHX  adds to my sound, dark, spacious, analogue - just nice. It's not moving for anything less. This has made the grade. I've set it up side by side and been able to get it to sound the same on settings I use, and it has a lot more functionality, and it uses a readily available PT2399 IC.

 

The circuit originates from Madbean - the discontinued "Dirtbaby". In their own words " an honest attempt to recreate a Memory Man with a PT2399". The circuit has been traced on Dirtbox layouts and thanks to him can be found here dirtbox - madbean .

I read up a lot on this one and have modified this some. Added a switchable charge pump to 17v, placed the trimpot on top which does give me some less/more effect options. I've a few component values based on recommendations for a darker tone. Just found my notes I grabbed while researching

NOTES

 So I finished a couple Dirtbabies lately, one for a friend and one for me.

It's simply the BEST PT2399 delay I've built.

I changed C10 (1,5nf instead of 1nf) and C12 (150nf instead of 100nf) for less noise and a very slightly darker tone (still quite bright!)
R4 is about 30k (raising C12 raised the volume also), and R35 is 56k. C14 is a 47uf tantalum (I read in the notes from valvewizard that using a tantalum in that place was better, so I keep doing it with every PT2399 circuit I build)

The first opamp is a BB OPA2134 and the second one is a OP275.

I added a charge pump to run it at 18v (much better in my opinion!) and also added a couple things:
- a tone switch that adds another 1,5nf in parallel with C10 for a much darker delay
- a slam footswitch with internal trimpot accessible from behind, to decide how fast it ramps towards oscillation.

I t's seriously not a difficult build, as long as you take your time to plan everything well.

I'd recommend to socket all opamps and PT2399 of course, but also :
R4 (feedback resistor. In mine, 33k)
R35 (mod rate. In mine 56k)
R37 (mod depth. Kept it stock in mine)
C8 (just in case, cf build doc. Stock in mine)
C9 and C10 (in mine C10 is 1,5nf, helps with the noise, though it cuts a tiny amount of treble response. Still bright enough for me. Far brighter than the analog mode of my Echo Park, which is supposedly modeled after a DMM)
C13 (will alter the way the repeats degrade, keeping more treble in a tape-like way, cf build doc)

And I definitely recommend a charge pump to run it at 18v. So much better in both my builds!! (and that's the reason I use a IR9022 instead of TL062 for the LFO, since 18v is the maximum voltage allowed for TL062)  

I stuck with the 17v charge pump as I've used the TL062 for reasons as above. A vero layout for this can be found on tagboard effects along with many other useful little circuit tools. As with the mods I did use, I suggest socket - experiment once you've got a working thing.

Aside from all the options this pedal offers, the level/volume control is a big pro for me. The memory Boy always give a volume increase which is a pain in the A** . Now I can get unity.

It's not a pedal I would attempt first, there's a bit going on. But I highly recommend to do at some stage.

It is now my full-time delay - main board.

I'm stoked with the look of this one. Continuing on now from the protein look. Adding a bit of colour,

I've found UV cured epoxy, cheap as chips from TEMU, China. It's great. You can tint it, apply it, and when you're happy, cure it. This is my first use of it instead of paint to colour the etching cavities. Still a clear coat on top too.

I picked up some 50k slider pots for an EQ/Boost pedal I'm thinking about next and was able to use one of the extras here. Looks retro. Stole the slider knob off an old Technics HI-Fi Eq I got with my record player.

Making your own Pedz from the shed Rulez :-)

Blues 2 Rock - Protein

   

My next project I've decided is the Protein. I found the circuit thanks to Dirtbox layouts and his awesome selection of circuits. A modified ODR-1 Overdrive going into a blues-breaker with added headroom. It's on my board in Looper 2- overdrives, at the end. Timmy at front for stacking if wanted, Bluesbreaker with HEADROOM at the back. It works really well. Bluesbreaker on it's own, ODR-1 on it's own. Put them together for even more. Stacking other pedals into the bluesbreaker is keeping it there. I highly recommend to try. I have used shielded/grounded wire on input and output to help ensure no noise issues, as it's close quarters inside a 1590BB2. The LED's are running off a piece of vero also.

 

I'm starting to get very happy with how a pedal I've made looks. The enclosure is "silver hammer" 1590bb2 from Tayda. Acid etching enclosures and patching cock-ups with plates has led me think this one up. I just recycle old aluminum flashings, whatever looks like it will work. Most polishes up Ok. Some are a alloy and for that reason I started converting my hydrochloric acid to Ferric Chloride. It's relatively simple and I've found works well, and with other metal such as brass. It's all just hacksaw and file and plenty of patience. Drew it up on Inkscape and went from there. For now this is where I want to head on the look, which is becoming somehow a big part of the whole experience.

 

 

 

Spring Reverb with tank from old amp

 How I came about building this was the result of an unfortunate event. Don't let people with booze near your gear!!! Some one dropped a boubon and coke all over my Marshall VS265 and it dribbled inside, all over the circuit board while it was on. Fried it, and although not impossible to fix perhaps - too major for my abilities at the time. Sigh,  I loved that amp. I had to replace it with same. Took a while looking out for one. $500 later all's well that ends well I suppose.

The fried Marshall has been saved for parts for No2 mostly, I've pulled the speakers and made a couple of extension cabinets out of plywood with them. There was also this spare reverb tank that turned out to be exactly the one required for General guitar gadgets "Centre Stage Reverb". Thanks to them for posting this stuff. Had to build it, and it works well. A very analogue reverb. I'm happy enough for this to be my keeper. I only use it when I'm playing clean stuff, and a bit of subtle delay, nice and glassy.

Artwork was done during the sticky decal film period. Painted the enclosure white, then had a go wrapping it entirely in the printed film. Not something I'd recommend. I managed to do it reasonably tidy. The overlap splices are mostly where it looks less than pro. It's not too bad though and allowed me to continue the art pattern all over.

RECYCLED MARSHALL SPEAKERS 

Made up from what I had lying around. Rubbing the stain on ply turned out quite cool I thought.

ABY swich

 Another handy addition to the arsenal. I've built this so I can switch from my electric to acoustic guitar going to same amp without having to unplug. LED's indicate which channel I'm on. Alternately use from 1 guitar able to switch between 2 different amps. This is something I carry round just in case the need to use arises.

I used the diagram kindly posted by Beavis Audio found here along with much more Beavis Audio Switchers

Klon Buffer

 

 

So if you end up with more pedals on your board than you really need- like me, you might find one of these little things handy. Volume drop through a lot of pedals, or signal strength more to say weakens. One of these will re-invigorate your signal. I use the Silver Klon at the beginning of my chain. It's on a lot of the time in a subtle fashion, so boosting my incoming signal when on and doing the same when off with the built in buffered bypass.

To avoid my signal having to go through everything on the board, I use a 5 position true bypass looper. I've just finished making my own version of this. Will post later.

My chain is from IN🠊 Tuner 🠊 Klon / BUFFER🠊 loop1 distortion/high gain pedal/s 🠊 loop2 Overdrive pedal/s  🠊 loop3  Modulation -phaser, chorus, tremelo etc  BUFFER🠊 loop4  Delay 🠊 loop5 Reverb 🠊 Noise gate 🠊 EQ 🠊 Boost 🠊 Out to Amp. Right or wrong it works for me.

 The looper allows me to true bypass most of the pedals not in use at the time. With the EQ and boost at the end I don't find the need for a buffer there. I made this one up to sit at the end of whatever modulation pedals I have on board at the time.  It's these pedals I mostly suffered losses from and placing one here seems to have erased that problem well. I found a small box so it can be placed without much room grab. 

I've made another out of a used Mustard box- thought it seemed appropriate to the purpose of the circuit. Works sweet. Switchable with a 3pdt toggle, led indicator, wired the input straight out to a plug due to access restrictions. This one will go on my ultimate pedal board in the end.

The circuit is basically a trace of the buffer built in the Klon, small and easy to build with common TL072 ( probably many dual op-amps would work here). You can find circuit for this on many of the sites I've put up that offer layouts

The RAT - Pack

 

For many years I have been using the MOOER Black Secret as my RAT option. It's small, vintage or turbo switch and sounds great cleanish or dirty - The RAT is a very versatile overdrive and distortion. I would put this on the bucket list for sure. In whatever form you choose to have - new/second hand aren't that expensive. Older ones will have the LM308 IC, which are hard to find. ( I got a few from JAYCAR @ $10 each) I've got enough to build a few. I tried the OP07 and still sounded good to me. Also have some LM208's in metal can version. Yet to try but confident they will work.

Along with the Big Muff ( now replaced with the Scarab Deluxe) was my main dirty dirt pedal and It will always be on my board.

I found the build info for this one via some help on forums from Beavis Audio Research. Link is here Beavis Audio 4 Knob Rat .

This one involves producing 2 PCB's, The main circuit and a daughterboard with different clipping options. I managed to squeeze it all in a 1590BB, but it was tight and I'd use a 1590BB2 next time if I make another like this one. On that note, I have also discovered a vero layout for this on Sabratone proco-rat-w-lots-of-options . Using a 5T rotary switch for clipping selection. With a vero size of 20 x 14 I'll most likely try for a smaller enclosure, probably have to 125b with the big 5T switch, 4 pots and 2 switches.

Again I've tried Acid Etching with reasonable success this time. Diluted the brew, used nail polish on any visible weaknesses to the mask. Fairly happy with the finish. You'll see I'm a bit of a Stranglers fan with Rattus Norvegicus in the mix. Some hand painting - clear coat. This one is serving me well.

I've placed the clipping LED's on top as well, lighting up more the harder you play