Blues 2 Rock - Protein

   

My next project I've decided is the Protein. I found the circuit thanks to Dirtbox layouts and his awesome selection of circuits. A modified ODR-1 Overdrive going into a blues-breaker with added headroom. It's on my board in Looper 2- overdrives, at the end. Timmy at front for stacking if wanted, Bluesbreaker with HEADROOM at the back. It works really well. Bluesbreaker on it's own, ODR-1 on it's own. Put them together for even more. Stacking other pedals into the bluesbreaker is keeping it there. I highly recommend to try. I have used shielded/grounded wire on input and output to help ensure no noise issues, as it's close quarters inside a 1590BB2. The LED's are running off a piece of vero also.

 

I'm starting to get very happy with how a pedal I've made looks. The enclosure is "silver hammer" 1590bb2 from Tayda. Acid etching enclosures and patching cock-ups with plates has led me think this one up. I just recycle old aluminum flashings, whatever looks like it will work. Most polishes up Ok. Some are a alloy and for that reason I started converting my hydrochloric acid to Ferric Chloride. It's relatively simple and I've found works well, and with other metal such as brass. It's all just hacksaw and file and plenty of patience. Drew it up on Inkscape and went from there. For now this is where I want to head on the look, which is becoming somehow a big part of the whole experience.

 

 

 

Silver Klon

 

 Up until now my KLon has been the NUX golden horse. Almost always on - a pedal I don't want to part with. The NUX is actually very good. Switchable between gold and silver versions and also able to switch between true bypass or buffered when not on. I keep it in buffered at the beginning of my chain.

The circuit is originated from build your own clone Silver pony in vero layout from Mark @ tagboard effects along with a few other Klon options. I seem to almost always opt for the silver version on the NUX so that was my choice.

Again my etching has turned out rather scratchy, but given I wanted an aged celtic look it fits well.

The firehorse text was fairly illegible, so began me starting to fix things to the box as I decided to cover it with a remade bit of aluminium.

I did find some extra noise issues, and would recommend some shielded(grounded) input and output wires here and get the right voltage doubler. One drawback here is I had to to 125b enclosure due to size of vero board, so it takes up more room than the little NUX. Other than that works great.

Timmy the Kid

This is about when I discovered Tayda and Their printing service. I've used Sketchup for many years to design things before I commit to making, so I was able to eventually use Inkscape to start drawing designs in vector format according to Tayda requirements, mostly no overlaps, sized right etc. With the use of another program called Scribus I was able to convert the finished drawing into the correct layer format, change colours to CYMK, apply the right Roland swatches for the clear and white layers and end up producing a PDF that worked. Above are a png of my inkscape drawing and photo of pedal.

Another great pedal really. I use it often as a booster/ stacker booster, but useful on its own in many ways. So many transparent overdrives and their all good. worth the build for me

 

Barbershop

 Raw, gritty, warm, smooth, open and transparent are all terms that have been used to describe this overdrive. It sounds great with any setup, but truly shines when used to dirty up a tube amp.

Another early pedal. I'm still using the decal film. The circuit is the fairfield circuitry "Barbershop"

A very nice organic transparent overdrive. After playing it for awhile, bliss really summed it up for me . Sounds just like demos. Circuit in vero layout is here : https://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/search?q=barbershop